How and When to Re-Pot Orchids
I read your great article on how to plant an orchid on a board. What I really need to know is how and when to re-pot my orchid to a new pot. Could you help me out? I love my orchid and don’t want to kill it!
Don’t be afraid to re-pot your orchids when they need it. Re-potting helps them grow better. Orchids usually need re-potting about every other year and the best time to do it is right after the orchid finishes blooming and starts to produce new growth.
Signs that indicate an orchid may need a new container:
- Several roots are growing over the side of the pot.
- When you examine the roots, they appear soggy and rotting. This is usually due to the medium deteriorating and not draining well.
- The plant is leaning to the side over the edge of the pot.
How to prepare the orchid mix before using it:
Thoroughly soak the potting material you plan to use. If you skip this step the growing medium will never hold moisture well and will constantly dry out.
- Pour the potting material into a bucket about twice of the volume of the mix.
- Fill the bucket with hot water.
- Let the mixture soak overnight.
- The next day, drain the excess water by pouring the mix through a colander or strainer
Removing the orchid from its container
Soak the pot containing the orchid in water for several hours, then gently pull the orchid out. Carefully loosen the roots, and shake off all the existing medium. Remove any soggy, damaged, or dead roots.
Selecting a new container
If the roots were healthy, firm, and had filled the existing pot, your new pot should be one size (1-2 inches) larger than the current one. If you have cut off quite few dead or rotting roots, use the same size container as before. If you place an orchid in a pot that’s too large, the growing medium doesn’t dry out quickly and this causes root rot.
Planting the orchid
It’s important to plant your orchid in its new pot at the same depth as it was in its old pot. If there is any new growth developing, try to have it about levelThese are general guidelines that describe different poisonous plant toxicity levels. It's possible for an allergic reaction to occur from contact with any houseplant, toxic or non-toxic. If there is ever a concern, call: Poison Control Center: ******1-800-222-1222****** Level #1: Houseplants with low toxicity, may be mildly irritating, especially the sap of the plant. Level#2: Houseplants with medium to severe toxicity. Eating parts of these houseplants may result in vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pains, skin irritations, and breathing difficulties. Level #3: These houseplants are very poisonous. When eaten, especially in large quantities, severe vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pains, skin irritations, and breathing difficulties can occur. Level #4: These houseplants are extremely poisonous. Eating parts of these houseplants can be be life threatening. Every plant listed in our Popular HousePlant guide has a section explaining whether or not it is toxic and, if so, how dangerous it is. Amaryllis, alocasia, dieffenbachias, crotons, ivies, azaleas, lilies, and philodendrons are just a few of the highly poisonous plants we use in our homes and offices all of the time. If you don't know whether your houseplant can pose a threat, send an email to Ask Judy@HousePlant411.com. Include a picture of your plant and a description. Judy will let you know if the houseplant should be kept away from small children and pets. See colorful pictures and get more information about poisonous houseplants in my book Don’t Feed Me To Your Cat! A Guide to Poisonous Houseplants with the rim of the container.
- Pack new, fresh potting medium around the roots. Keep adding mix until your orchid is securely planted and doesn’t move around. If your orchid can move around in the pot, new roots never properly form.
- Place a thin bamboo stake in the center of the pot for support using rhizome clips, soft string, or twisty ties to attach the plant.
I know this is a lot of information, so email me if any of this is unclear.